The landscape of Jewish-American delis has been in a steady decline for nearly a century. While there were more than 1,500 kosher delis in New York City in the 1930s, today there are about two dozen. However, one deli, opened by a Hungarian Holocaust survivor in a Hasidic pocket of Brooklyn in 1962, has defied this trend, despiteā āor perhaps because ofā āits adherence toĀ a particularly strict set of Judaic dietary standards. Gottliebās Restaurant is today one of only a handful of Glatt kosher delis left in the country.
Beyond the hundreds of rules outlining kosher eating, the restrictions of a Glatt kosher diet call for the lungs of slaughtered animals to be free of defects as well as for a supervisor called a mashgiachĀ to be present at all times. To be sure, no Reubens with Swiss cheese are on the menu at Gottleibās. By obeying these rigid principles, the restaurant has become integral to Williamsburgās Orthodox community.
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